As the Biden administration settles into the White House, it faces many challenges and juggles many potential policies for how to combat the problems the world is facing. One such suggestion comes from a surprising place – the fashion industry.
On Feb. 9, journalist Elizabeth Segran published an article in Fast Company calling on the Biden administration to focus on the issues plaguing the fashion industry; a lack of environmental regulations and human rights abuses were named as key examples. Segran’s primary suggestion was that President Biden appoint a fashion czar, someone who would oversee programs and laws designed to combat the industry problems.
An online petition on the topic has gained traction, and nearly two dozen fashion brands and advisors have thrown their support behind the issue. This is a movement that will most likely continue growing in the coming weeks. But what exactly are the problems in the fashion industry that need fixing, and what can we do about it?
The Dangers of Fast Fashion
The fashion industry has seen exponential growth in the past few decades. People have a connection to their clothes, and personal style is seen as an important form of self-expression. Clothes are also a resource that people continue to buy. After all, a popular viewpoint is that someone can never own too many pairs of shoes or cute outfits. However, this high demand comes with a cost.
Fast fashion is a business model where trends in fashion (which are coming and going faster than ever) are quickly mass-produced and sold at a low cost. It relies on the instant replication of catwalk and Hollywood trends, which are then made available to the masses with lowered prices.
The average consumer is estimated to be buying about 60 percent more clothing than they were 15 years ago. Clothes are becoming cheaper and trends are sticking around for shorter spans of time, leading to a higher amount of clothing owned but fewer pieces that stick around for longer than a year. Fashion is moving so quickly that most pieces of clothing can’t withstand the test of time. In America, over the last 20 years, the volume of clothes thrown away has doubled from seven million to 14 million tons.
This turnover rate is terrible for the environment, and between the many global factories and workshops churning out new designs, it is estimated that the fashion industry accounts for ten percent of global greenhouse gas emissions. Pieces are made using non-renewable resources such as petroleum, increasing the levels of pollution in their areas.
In addition to environmental issues, the fast fashion industry exploits workers overseas. Complex supply chains and offshore factories make it difficult to trace which companies exactly are responsible, but the drive for cheap labor and materials means that workers in countries such as China and Cambodia are severely underpaid and often work in hazardous conditions.
What Can We Do About Fast Fashion?
While many of the problems in the fashion industry cannot be solved until companies take action themselves, there are still steps that you can take to reduce the impact of your clothing on the environment. Avoiding purchases from fast fashion companies is one step.
Fashion Nova is a fast fashion retailer that was exposed in 2019 for severely underpaying the workers they rely on to generate their clothing collection, owing millions in back wages. While the low prices and vast collections of similar companies may make it tempting to buy from them, it is important to remember why they can afford to sell trendy clothes at such low prices. Always research the company you are buying clothes from, and avoid those with deliberately vague records of production and employee payments.
Another way that people can help is by donating or reusing their used clothes. Only a small amount of clothes are donated or reused, meaning that most go to landfills or garbage dumps. This is called textile waste, and it is a big problem for the environment. Textiles take a long time to break down, meaning that they will remain for many years without biodegrading. They also emit toxins as they decompose, contributing to pollution.
It may mean going out of your way to find a thrift shop, clothing drive, or thrift store like Goodwill, but it will do good for the environment in the long-run. In addition, passing on old or unwanted clothes to younger family members or giving them to friends can help reduce the amount you throw away. Creative minds repurpose old clothes into various items, like blankets or purses.
By thoroughly vetting retailers, especially when buying online, you can ensure you are not supporting companies that exploit their workers or harm the environment. Donating your old clothing also helps people in need.
But Do We Really Need a Fashion Czar?
The petition and movement to appoint a fashion czar is still relatively new, meaning we have a long road ahead before anything actually happens. However, the issues caused by the fashion industry are not going anywhere. How could a fashion czar help?
“This czar could transform America into a global hub of sustainable and humane fashion, ensuring it stays a thriving part of the economy”
Elizabeth Segran
“This czar could transform America into a global hub of sustainable and humane fashion, ensuring it stays a thriving part of the economy,” said Segran in her letter. Among her suggestions for the responsibilities of the fashion czar were holding the industry responsible for human rights violations and advocating for laws and regulations designed to curb the problems of the industry.
Segran mentions that while no other country has appointed a position similar to that of the fashion czar, there are still some examples to follow. One such example she gives is France, where a secretary of state “has made it her personal mission to focus on the fashion industry’s footprint.” While other countries are making their own strides towards rectifying the issues of fast fashion, the U.S would be the first country with a specific person in charge of curbing the issues of the industry.
Of course, there are already departments and committees that oversee human rights violations, labor laws, and environmental regulations. President Biden has also stated that tackling climate change is one of the major goals of his administration. This approach includes utilizing all departments and encouraging cooperation among all levels of the government, so the negative impact the fashion industry has on the environment will theoretically be addressed without the need for a fashion czar.
Regardless, it is indicative that there is a growing awareness of the problems in the fashion industry, and a call to action for people to make change. The fashion industry is one that desperately needs oversight and regulation. With or without a fashion czar at the helm, calling attention to these issues is a step in the right direction.
Learn more about fast fashion and sustainability with Novel Hand!
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